Method of shoe construction



Dec. 13, 1960 Filed Aug. 26, 1958 N. STIX METHOD OF SHOE CONSTRUCTION 3Sheets-Sheet 1 INVENTQR. NATH AN STIX v ATTORNEYS Dec. 13, 1960 N. STIX2,963,722

METHOD OF SHOE CONSTRUCTION Filed Aug. 26, 1958 3 Sheets-Sheet 2INVENTOR.

NATHAN STI X A TTORNE Y5 Dec. 13, 1960 N. STIX 2,963,722

METHOD OF SHOE CONSTRUCTION Filed Aug. 26, 1958 3 Sheets-Sheet 3INVENTOR.

NATHAN STIX ATTORNEYS h IETHOD OF SHOE CONSTRUCTION Nathan Stix,Cincinnati, Ohio, assignor to The United States Shoe Corporation,Cincinnati, Ohio, a corporation of Ohio Filed Aug. 26, 1958, Ser. No.757,318

4 Claims. (Cl. '12145) This invention relates to a shoe construction andmore particularly to an improved method of making flexible, lightweightshoes.

Many of the recent improvements in shoe constructions, particularlyWomens shoes, have been directed toward the achievement of lightness andflexibility. Such a purpose can obviously be furthered by employinglightweight and flexible raw materials for the components of the shoe,but there is a limit to the lightness and flexibility which may beobtained in this manner commensurate with desirable strength. One priorart attempt to achieve such desirable characteristics is concerned withthe elimination of the in-sole which conventionally is tacked orotherwise secured to a last and permits the assembly of a sock liningwith the upper of the shoe. In accordance with the foregoing method, thein-sole is eliminated, and the sock lining is sewn directly to the upperbefore lasting. This method has inherent difiiculties, however, whichmake it impractical for large scale operations.

It is accordingly a primary object of the invention to provide a uniquemethod of shoe construction.

A further principal object of the invention is to provide a uniquemethod of making lightweight flexible shoes.

An additional object of the invention is to provide such a method whichpermits the assembly of a sock lining and an upper in a manner whicheliminates the need for an in-sole but yet which is simple andpractical.

A still further object of the invention is to provide a method of theforegoing type which does not require the tacking of the sock lining toa last or the stitching of the sock lining to an upper prior to lasting.

Another object of the invention is to provide an improved method oflasting a shoe.

Yet another object of the invention is to provide a method of theforegoing type in which the sock lining and upper may be properly heldin position on a last A without requiring the use of tacks or withminimum use of tacks.

An additional object of the invention is to provide a method asaforesaid which does not require any highly technical or specialmanufacturing process steps which might greatly increase the cost orcomplexity of shoe manufacturing operations.

The foregoing and other objects, features, and advantages of theinvention and the manner in which the same are accomplished will becomemore readily apparent upon consideration of the following detaileddescription of the invention when taken in conjunction with theaccompanying drawings which illustrate a preferred and exemplary form ofthe invention and wherein:

Figure 1 is a perspective view of an upper formed in accordance with theteachings of the invention;

Figure 2 is a transverse cross-sectional view of a detail of theinvention;

Figure 3 is a plan view of a sock lining employed in the invention;

Figure 4 is a side elevation view of the sock lining of Figure 3;

Figure 5 is a perspective view illustrating the step of assembling theupper and sock lining on a last;

Figure 6 is a perspective view illustrating another step in the processof the invention;

Figure 7 is a perspective view illustrating still another step in theprocess of the invention;

Figure 8 is a perspective view illustrating the completion of a shoeconstructed in accordance with the teachings of the invention; and

Figure 9 is an enlarged fragmentary longitudinal sectional View of thesock lining of Figure 3.

Briefly stated, the invention is concerned with the provision of anupper which has a lasting allowance, to opposed portions of which isattached an elasticized stay or gusset, which serves to hold the upperand an associated sock lining in position on a last. The sock lining ofthe invention has a flexible ball-of-the-foot portion and is readilyassembled with the upper on the last and secured to the lastingallowance. In accordance with the process of the invention, theelasticized stay or gusset is disassociated from the upper when the socklining has been permanently positioned with respect to the upper, andthe formation of the shoe is then completed, including the assembly ofthe upper with a conventional outer sole and heel.

Referring to the drawings, and initially to Figures 1 through 4 thereof,in accordance with the principles of the invention an upper generallydesignated by reference numeral 10 is cut and sewn from suitablematerial, such as flexible leather, and is formed in accordance withconventional techniques to the shape illustrated in Figure 1. The upperis provided with a lasting allowance l2 and in the form shown has anornamental tongue 15. Opposed intermediate side portions of the lastingallowance, which ultimately will lie adjacent the ball of the foot, areprovided with small marginal projections 14, and as shown more fully inFigure 2, the projections 14 are secured as by lines of stitching 16 tothe corresponding edges of a stay or gusset 18. The stay is a section ofelasticized material and bridges the space between the opposedprojections 14. In the form shown the edges of the stay that areattached to the projections are slightly curved.

Further in accordance with the principles of the invention, the upperformed as above is to be assembled with a sock lining generallydesignated by reference numeral 20, Figures 3, 4, and 9. The sock liningmay be constituted by a suitably shaped thin sheet of leather 22laminated with a layer of porous fabric 24. In the form shown the socklining is stiffened at its toe and its heel-shank portions by sectionsof stifiening material 26 and 28. These sections may be formed of asuitable thin fiberboard. The edges of the unstiifened ball-ofthe-footportion 30 may be reinforced by rolling over the upper layer of leathermaterial 22 as shown at 32. Thus constituted the sock lining isrelatively stiff at its toe and shank-heel portions but is flexible atits ball-of-the-foot portion.

In the making of a shoe in accordance with the invention, the upper andsock lining are first provided in the aforesaid manner. The upper isthen placed on a conventional last 34 as shown in Figure 5, the upperbeing conformed to the shape of the last in accordance with well-knownshoe manufacturing techniques. When properly placed on the last, theupper will have its stay or gusset 18 adjacent the ball-of-the-footportion of the last. The sock lining 20 is then slipped under the stay18 so that it lies flat against the sole portion of the last in theposition it will properly assume when the shoe is completed. The socklining will be held in place by the stay 18 and the adjacent lastingallowance, but if desired, one or two positioning tacks may be em- 3ployed to assist holding the sock lining in place on the last. With thesock lining. and upper properly placed on the last as shown in Figure 5,the tin-reinforced ballof-thefoot portion of the sock lining will lieunder the stay 18. a i 7 Now the lasting allowance forward and rearwardof the stay 18 may be attached to the sock lining by folding the lastingallowance over the marginal portions of the sock lining and securing itthereto adhesively in accordance with well-known practices. Suitableslits and notches 36 are provided in the lasting ailowance, as is wellknown, to permit the ready working of the lasting allowance forattachment to the sock lining.

When the adhesive has set sufiiciently to ensure that the upper and socklining will remain in proper position, the stay 18 is disassociated fromthe upper by cutting away the projections 14 and the attached stay asshown in Figure 6, the cutting operation being indicated by the knife38. Next the lasting allowance portions which formerly were attached tothe stay 18 are secured adhesively to the mating ball-of-the-footportion of the sock lining, the partially formed shoe then appearing asin Figure 7.

After the components of the shoe have been formed and assembled as shownin Figure 7, the remainder of the assembly process may proceedconventionally, the finished shoe with outer sole 4% and heel 42attached to the upper being illustrated in Figure 8. The shoe formed inaccordance with the invention is characterized by the desired lightnessand flexibility, the increased suppleness with respect to prior shoeconstructions being pronounced in the region of the ball of the foot,where the sock lining is un-reinforced. By virtue of the invention, theupper and the sock lining are assembled without requiring an in-sole andwithout requiring the stitching of the sock lining to the upper prior tolasting, yet the assembly is accomplished simply and reliably. Becauseelement 20 is very thin, light-weight, and generally similar to aconventional sock lining, this element has been designated a socklining. However, in view of the fact that element 20 is attached to theupper in the lasting of the shoe, it may also be looked upon asconstituting a thin in-sole incorporating the functions of a socklining.

From the foregoing description of the invention it will be apparent thatthe invention provides a unique and improved method of making a shoe.While what is now believed to be a preferred form of the inventionhas'been shown and described, it will be apparent to those skilled inthe art that changes can be made Without departing from the principlesand spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined in theappended claims. For example, the terms outer sole (or sole) and heelare 'used generically to embrace any type of sole construction, whetherthe heel is separate from or integral with the outer sole or simply anunraised area of the outer sole. Accordingly, the foregoing embodimentis to be considered illustrative, rather than restrictive of the in- 4vention, and those modifications which come within the meaning and rangeof equivalency of the claims are to be included therein.

The invention claimed is:

1. In the method of making a shoe, involving the use of an upper with alasting allowance having opposed marginal portions to which is attacheda section of material so as to bridge the space between such portions,and a separate sock lining; the steps which comprise placing the upperand the sock lining on a last with the section overlying the socklining, securing the lasting allowance to the sock lining, and removingsaid section from the upper.

2. In the method of making a shoe, involving the use of an upper with alasting allowance having projections along opposed marginal sideportions thereof to which is stitched a section of elasticized materialso that the section bridges the space between the projections, and asock lining; the steps which comprise placing the upper on a last,inserting the sock lining between the last and said section, securingthe free portions of the lasting allowance to the sock lining, severingthe projections and the attached elasticized section from the lastingallowance, and securing the lasting allowance portions to which saidprojections were attached to the sock lining.

3. In the method of making a shoe, involving the use of an upper with alasting allowance having opposed intermediate side portions to which issecured an elasticized section, and a sock lining; the steps whichcomprise placing the upper and the sock lining on a last with the socklining between the last and the section, adhesively securing the lastingallowance at opposite ends of said section to the sock lining,disassociating said section from the upper, and adhesively securing theportions of the lasting allowance formerly attached to said section tothe sock lining.

4. In the method of making a shoe, involving the use of an upper with alasting allowance having projections at opposed intermediate sideportions thereof to which is secured a section of elasticized materialwhich bridges the space between the projections, and a sock lininghaving relatively rigid shank-heel and toe portions and a relativelyflexible intermediate portion; the steps which comprise placing theupper and the sock lining on a last with the sock lining between thelast and the section, attaching the free portions of the lastingallowance to the sock lining, removing the elasticized section from theupper, and attaching the portions of the upper formerly associated withthe elasticized section to the sock lining.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS248,566 Applegate Oct. .25, 1881 313,301 Cross Mar. 3, 1885 503,062Norwood Aug. 8, 1893 1,575,813 Burke et al. -z Mar. 9, 1926

